E la cravatta?

Ormai da anni gli stilisti cercano di convincerci che possiamo fare a meno della cravatta ma, a parte il fatto che con poca coerenza continuano a disegnarle e a produrle, nessuno di noi intende rinunciare del tutto a questo pezzo di stoffa che, da solo, riesce a esaltare un abito o a rovinarne completamente l’effetto.

Oggi uscire senza cravatta non scandalizza più nessuno se non i tradizionalisti ad oltranza.

Fissiamo però delle regole basilari perché la presenza o l’assenza di una cravatta possono essere disastrose in tutti e due i casi.

E, se non siete più che sicuri di voi stessi, evitate di fare di testa vostra cercando un’originalità che vi può tradire.

Ricordatevi che prima di sovvertire delle regole o di ignorarle è fondamentale conoscerle bene.

Cravatta no

Diciamo subito che la stagione può aiutarci nella decisione: primavera inoltrata e estate permettono molta più libertà e quindi, a parte le occasioni formali, possiamo dimenticare la cravatta con animo sereno.

Ma

Questo non vuol dire che poi tutto ci sia permesso.

Tee shirt

Tee shirt

Se avete superato i quaranta dimenticatela! Una maglia girocollo sotto una giacca non vi dona e non vi aiuta, soprattutto se avete un collo magro e dei pettorali non degni di questo nome, per non parlare di una eventuale pancetta. Lasciate ai ragazzi queste libertà. Ricordatevi che il nostro scopo non è coprirci ma esaltare al meglio il nostro aspetto. Non tutti sono David Gandy ma, come avevo scritto in un articolo precedente, possiamo evitare certi errori e imparare un po’ di “stile”.

La camicia

Niente dona di più al vostro viso di una bella camicia e di  un bel colletto. Tom Ford ne è un esempio perfetto.

Ma… c’è sempre un ma, purtroppo.

Anche in questo caso l’attenzione è tutto. Non sperate di cavarvela slacciando semplicemente un bottone del colletto!

Avete scelto una camicia, che ritenete adatta al vostro outfit e all’effetto che sperate di ottenere?

Ma… avete provato ad indossarla con la giacca? Il colletto è giusto?

Non capite cosa intendo vero?

Mi spiego meglio.

Il colletto non deve schiacciarsi sotto la giacca ma deve fuoriuscirne armoniosamente.

Il button down è perfetto per queste situazioni perché “sta su” e vi veste il collo.

Button down

I colletti a punte larghe, cosiddetti alla francese, flosci o rigidi che siano, tendono ad allargarsi e a scomparire sotto i revers della giacca, quindi evitateli in questo caso.

Collo alla francese

Se non vi piace il button down, i colli a punte lunghe, detti all’italiana, possono aiutarvi a risolvere la situazione.

Collo a punte lunghe all’italiana

Un piccolo trucco: per mantenerli aperti e sollevati, piegateli con le mani leggermente verso l’esterno.

Quanti bottoni slaccio?

Slacciate il bottone del colletto e quello sottostante e fermatevi. Non è un’esibizione di pettorali!

Però, vi prego, slacciateli tutti e due. Con un solo bottone slacciato l’effetto seminarista è assicurato. Meglio decisamente la cravatta.

Un bottone: effetto seminarista
Due bottoni: corretto

Il petto villoso

A questo punto si apre una diatriba infinita sull’opportunità della depilazione. Diatriba che non vorrei affrontare.

Ma…se aprendo la camicia fuoriesce una foresta, vi prego, correte ai ripari! Soprattutto ad una certa età quando arriva l’ipertricosi e la foresta è coperta di neve.

Secondo me, se la depilazione non fa parte del vostro credo, avete due possibilità.

La prima consiste nel prendere un bel trimmer e nell’accorciare i peli in eccesso. Veloce, indolore e praticamente invisibile.

La seconda, che francamente preferisco e ho adottato per anni prima di decidermi a radere i peli del petto, prevede una bella passata di rasoio nella parte visibile attraverso l’apertura della camicia. Naturalmente questa soluzione funziona solo se non siete King Kong e quindi questo sfoltimento a torso nudo non si trasforma in una bella pista da sci attraverso la foresta.

Cravatta si

E ci troviamo davanti ad un’infinità di mondi possibili. Quale cravatta? Di che materiale? Tinta unita o disegni? Che nodo scelgo?

Affrontiamo un problema per volta.

Tanto per iniziare ricordatevi che la cravatta è forse la prima cosa che si nota in un uomo e vi permette di distinguervi e di dimostrare il vostro stile con una sola mossa.

Regola generale

Una regola generale che vi può guidare se siete alle prime armi nel costruire e soprattutto nell’indossare il vostro guardaroba è quella di rifuggire dalle eccentricità. Una scelta classica, che magari vi sembra banale e scontata, non può che essere giusta. Una giacca blu con dei pantaloni grigi, ad esempio, è sempre perfetta e, soprattutto, senza tempo.

Ma…potete rovinare tutto con i dettagli.

Se non siete più che sicuri di voi stessi, evitate di fare di testa vostra cercando un’originalità che vi può tradire.

Ricordatevi che, come ho già scritto sopra, prima di sovvertire delle regole o di ignorarle è essenziale conoscerle bene.

La camicia

Il  colletto è fondamentale. Determina il tono della camicia più del colore o della fantasia scelta.

Il button down, per cui i Brooks Brothers sono famosi, è un colletto esclusivamente sportivo. Non dimenticatelo.

Collo button down

Il colletto all’italiana o quello alla francese sono più versatili e si prestano a differenti occasioni.

Collo alla francese
Collo all’italiana

Esiste anche una versione di colletto all’italiana con le punte un po’ più allungate, che io amo molto e che di solito utilizzo con una spilla da colletto o che faccio fare con un listino che avvicina le punte. È un modello che Giorgio Armani ha molto usato e che ci riporta ad atmosfere legate agli anni ’30, ’40.

Il colletto può essere realizzato con la cucitura evidente o con la cucitura invisibile, che io preferisco in assoluto perché la considero molto più elegante.

Cucitura evidente: più sportiva

Decidete voi quella che più vi piace.

Tinta unita o fantasia?

La tinta unita

La tinta unita vi crea meno problemi e offre una scelta maggiore di tessuti: il popeline, l’oxford, il twill, il fil a fil, il denim, il lino… Ricordatevi soltanto di usare quest’ultimo esclusivamente d’estate.

Dal momento che stiamo imparando, l’azzurro è un cavallo vincente e non vi creerà mai problemi.

Naturalmente il bianco è un must ma, incredibilmente, è molto più difficile dell’azzurro. Se non siete abbronzati non vi aiuta e l’effetto matrimonio è sempre dietro l’angolo.

Le righe

Le righe, che io prediligo, sono molto eleganti. Declinatele in azzurro chiaro, blu, grigio, rosa e rosso, sempre alternate con il bianco. Diffidate dalle righe di differenti misure. È meglio un pari-pari (le righe sono di uguale larghezza).

Lasciate ai dandy navigati il gioco dei colori e delle misure.

Non mettetevi nei guai da soli.

I quadretti

I quadretti sono sempre più attuali e vi possono permettere di ravvivare con stile un abito che reputate noioso o di smitizzare una giacca blu o un abito grigio.

Evitate i quadretti piccolissimi: sono banali e noiosi.

Se deve essere quadretto, quadretto sia!

Una buona misura va da 3 a 5 mm. di lato.

Anche in questo caso per i colori utilizzate quelli delle righe e per ora sempre alternati con il bianco.

Per tutte le altre fantasie, dovete crescere e molto!

La cravatta

Può essere una standing ovation o un fiasco colossale!

Da dove partiamo?

Provate a seguirmi e la scelta sarà più facile.

In linea di massima le cravatte sono di seta, di lana, di organzino di seta, di lino o di cotone.

La lana si utilizza da ottobre a marzo/aprile e si accompagna ad abiti sportivi.

Il cotone e il lino da maggio/giugno a fine settembre e possono essere eleganti o sportivi.

La seta non ha stagioni.

Appare logico che la cravatta debba armonizzare con i colori della giacca e della camicia.

Ma…il gioco non è così semplice.

Come per la camicia, se non siete ancora degli esperti, pensate “classico” e non sbaglierete.

Tranquilli, pensare classico non vuol dire cadere nella noia, tutt’altro!

Caravatte tinta unita

Ci sono colori da trattare con circospezione. Il rosso è da evitare sempre. Seguito dal lilla e dall’arancione che sono colori molto difficili da gestire ma non impossibili. Un discorso a parte va fatto per il nero, che è quasi sempre da evitare per non cadere nell’effetto funerale o mafioso. Vi ricordo tuttavia che Fleming ha fatto indossare spesso cravatte nere a James Bond.

Il materiale influisce in modo determinante.  

Vi faccio un esempio: una cravatta di lana grigia è elegantissima se indossata con un tweed, un Principe di Galles o una flanella, naturalmente grigi. Una cravatta di seta grigia è terribile, soprattutto se è lucida. Il discorso cravatta grigia da cerimonia è diverso ma non è quello che stiamo affrontando.

Una cravatta blu o azzurra, indossata con un classico blazer blu (che è un capo di cui un uomo elegante non può fare a meno), è sempre perfetta, di qualunque materiale sia fatta.

Cravatte a righe

Se pensate righe, pensate, per favore Regimental!

Difficilmente nel guardaroba di un uomo elegante ne esistono altre.

Se mai sono passate di moda, ora c’è un forte ritorno di queste cravatte straordinarie che possono risolvere quasi qualsiasi situazione.

Cravatta regimental

È noto che il nome deriva dal fatto che, nel Regno Unito, per colori o disegno, identificano  un reggimento, un college o un circolo sportivo.

Le tipologie

  •  Titan: una sola riga posta sotto il nodo (ammetto di non averne mai vista una)
  • Ambrata:i colori delle righe hanno diverse sfumature dello stesso colore
  • Araldica: le righe hanno un andamento  orizzontale o verticale
  • A nastro: le righe sono su tutta la cravatta ad una distanza regolare
  • Mogador: una riga larga intervallata da altre due più strette
  • Bengala: le righe sono di uguale dimensione e  hanno colori contrastanti

Curiosità

Una curiosità: l’andamento delle righe determina l’origine della cravatta stessa.

Mi spiego meglio.

Se la riga parte dalla spalla sinistra e va verso il fianco destro, e cioè dal cuore alla spada o ricordano la posizione del braccio destro appoggiato sul cuore durante un giuramento, la cravatta è inglese. Andate a guardare le foto del principe Carlo o di suo figlio William.

Se la riga parte dalla spalla destra e va verso il fianco sinistro la cravatta è americana. Ne sono un tipico esempio le regimental di Brooks Brothers.

Le cravatte Regimental divennero di moda dopo il viaggio che il duca di Windsor fece negli Stati Uniti nel 1919. Egli più tardi in suo libro scrisse:“As a senior official of Granadier Guards, where I had served during the war, I was right to bring their tie and I did it often. The fashion reporters were quick to notice and, less than a year by the armistice, this tie with broad blue and red lines was all the rage in America.” (Come ufficiale anziano delle Granadier Guards , presso cui ho servito durante la guerra, avevo il diritto di portare la loro cravatta e lo feci spesso. I cronisti di moda non tardarono a notarlo e, meno di un anno dopo l’armistizio, questa cravatta dalle larghe righe blu e rosse faceva furore in America.)

È buona norma che la cravatta Regimental riprenda in qualche sua riga il colore dell’abito, della giacca o della camicia.

Potete indossarle anche con camicie a righe o a quadretti ma con molta molta attenzione.

Se avete dei dubbi ripiegate sulla tinta unita o sulle fantasie.

Cravatte fantasia

E qui si apre un altro mondo complesso e insidioso.

Ma… vi guido io.

I pois

Un grande classico. Elegantissimi e versatili. Li potete trovare declinati nella lana, nell’organzino e, naturalmente, nella seta.

Tendenzialmente io li preferisco abbinati ad abiti eleganti o semisportivi.

La cravatta a pois in lana o organzino può accordarsi anche ad un tessuto sportivo ma è necessaria una mano ferma come per un’operazione chirurgica. Sinchè non abbiamo raggiunto un nostro stile ben definito e riconosciuto, evitiamo i pericoli.

Non ascoltate i noiosi che vi dicono di non mescolare mai righe e pois!

Un abito gessato blu e bianco è perfetto con una camicia bianca e una cravatta blu a pois bianchi (magari non troppo grandi).

Lo stesso possiamo dire, ad esempio, per una camicia a righe bianche e azzurre con una cravatta azzurra a pois bianchi.

Io amo molto indossare la  flanella grigia con una camicia a righe bianche e bordeaux, completata da una cravatta in seta grigia a pois bordeaux.

Disegni a pois
I disegni Paisley

Sono anche detti più comunemente disegni cachemire e sono caratterizzati dal ripetersi in modo più o meno complesso di un motivo che può essere interpretato come una goccia, una foglia o una piuma…

Disegni Paisley

Li potete trovare stampati sulla lana o molto più spesso sulla seta.

Si utilizzano praticamente con tutti i tessuti, non dimenticando mai la regola del riferimento o della concordanza cromatici.

I disegni cosiddetti cravatta

Potete trovarne a bizzeffe ma, prima di giocarvi in un colpo solo la considerazione di uomo elegante che vi state faticosamente conquistando, limitate per ora le vostre scelte.

Seta Madder

La seta madder, originaria dell’Inghilterra che ha una mano particolare e una profondità di colori insuperabile. I disegni sono medio piccoli,  geometrici e ripetitivi. Perfetta anche e soprattutto con i tweed e i tessuti rustici. Interprete straordinario di questo tessuto è il mio amico di Instagram @amidestevens con i prodotti del suo marchio Amidèhadelin.

Marinella

Le cravatte di Marinella il genio napoletano delle cravatte. I disegni riprendono spesso i motivi della seta madder ma con un’impronta personale. Ricordatevi che un uomo elegante riconosce una cravatta di Marinella al primo sguardo! Con una sua cravatta non sbaglierete mai!

Le cravatte di Hermès. Il trionfo del disegno ripetuto all’infinito: staffe, morsi, H, animali, geometrie… tutto ciò che potete desiderare o immaginare. Personalmente penso che se trovate nel guardaroba di vostro padre o vostro nonno qualche cravatta di Hermès la dovete custodire gelosamente. Io ne possiedo un certo numero vintage, quasi tutte di mio suocero e le preferisco decisamente a quelle mie più recenti.

Il nodo della cravatta

Arrivati a questo punto del nostro viaggio dovreste riuscire in poche mosse  ad abbinare vestito, camicia, cravatta con risultati abbastanza soddisfacenti.

Ma… se sbagliate il nodo della cravatta potete vanificare tutti i vostri sforzi.

Quale nodo?

Ce ne sono moltissimi. Secondo una ricerca recente pare che esistano addirittura 85 nodi diversi ma io vi illustrerò solo le caratteristiche di quelli più usati (che sono anche quelli che preferisco) e per quale ragione sceglierne uno invece di un altro. Non vi spiegherò quindi come si fanno perché su internet potete trovare addirittura dei tutorial sull’argomento e perché questa non mi sembra la sede adatta.

Ma… non affezionatevi troppo al nodo che avete scelto e che secondo voi vi rappresenta. Si, perché anche il nodo parla di voi e vi contraddistingue.

Perché? Mi chiederete.

Perché il nodo va scelto anche in funzione del tessuto della cravatta, del suo spessore, della scivolosità della seta, se di seta si tratta, e del colletto della camicia.

Regole sul nodo

Prima di fare il nodo, chiudete il bottone del colletto e risvoltate  verso l’alto le punte. Annodate la cravatta nel modo scelto e tiratela bene in modo che il nodo sia ben fermo e copra il bottone del colletto.

Perché, vi prego, il nodo lasco (molle) no! Il nodo lasco non esiste in natura.

Il bottone del colletto non si deve vedere mai. È una cosa inguardabile. Non raccontatemi che la cravatta vi strangola. Piuttosto non mettetela.

Altra regola: la parte anteriore della cravatta e quella posteriore dovrebbero essere lunghe uguali in modo che le punte si tocchino.

Ma…nel mondo reale è molto difficile, a meno che non siate degli esperti.

Se non ci riuscite, pazienza.

Ma…non deve esserci comunque troppa differenza e soprattutto la parte posteriore non deve essere mai più lunga di quella anteriore!

Perfezione si o no?

Con il tempo capirete che il vero uomo elegante non è mai perfetto.

La perfezione può essere noiosa. La cosiddetta sprezzatura armonizza pezzi apparentemente contrastanti ma che un uomo sicuro del suo stile sa mescolare in perfetta armonia.

Anche il nodo della cravatta deve dare l’impressione che l’abbiate fatto senza pensarci troppo e non  “impiegando ogni mattina del tempo per annodare in perfetta imperfezione la cravatta” (Giorgio Giangiulio).

Non avete mai notato che molto spesso le cravatte delle raffinate icone di stile che ammirate presentano subito sotto il nodo una piccola infossatura, detta goccia o dimple?

 È un’apparente, elegantissima, imperfezione o sgualcitura che movimenta l’andamento della cravatta e ne aumenta i chiaroscuri dandole volume. 

La goccia o dimple

Come si ottiene? Inserite un dito sotto il nodo prima di tirare definitivamente la cravatta.  Oppure prendete le due parti laterali della cravatta subito sotto il nodo completato e piegate una verso l’altra. Non è difficile ma richiede qualche tentativo se siete alle prime armi.

La parte piccola della cravatta, quella posteriore per intenderci, si può infilare o meno nell’etichetta o nella linguetta apposita dietro al lembo anteriore. Oggi la tendenza è quella di lasciare i due lembi liberi in un apparente disordine, ma potete scegliere a vostro piacimento. Io personalmente preferisco il lembi liberi solo nelle occasioni meno formali.

Ancora una cosa: evitate come la peste i fermacravatta. Per intenderci quelle spille o mollette che si vedevano con frequenza nei film americani degli anni ‘40 o ’50.

Il nodo semplice o four in hand

È un nodo abbastanza piccolo e molto facile che sceglierete se la cravatta ha un po’ di corpo che le da consistenza evitando così un nodo troppo piccolo o se il tessuto è molto spesso come la lana o se avete una “sette pieghe”.

Nodo semplice

È di aspetto conico e allungato, vagamente asimmetrico.

Si adatta a quasi tutti i colli tranne che a quelli alla francese, molto aperti, perché spesso troppo piccolo o poco coprente.

Nodo semplice doppio
Il nodo semplice doppio o Albert

È praticamente uguale al nodo semplice ma con un giro in più, per cui    risulta adatto a cravatte realizzate con tessuti molto leggeri come la seta o il cotone o l’organzino. Perfetto se si vuole ottenere un effetto più corposo e sotto colli a punte avvicinate da listini o spille come negli anni ’30, che io personalmente amo molto.

Nodo Windsor

Il nodo Windsor o Scappino

Viene attribuito al duca di Windsor ma molto più probabilmente fu inventato da Domenico Scappino, sarto dei Savoia, intorno agli anni ’30.

È un nodo complesso, piuttosto importante e perfettamente triangolare. Richiede colli a punte piuttosto allargate e cravatte dai tessuti non troppo corposi per evitare un effetto grossolano e invadente.

Io lo utilizzo quando le cravatte sono troppo leggere o scivolose come le cravatte di Hermès. Stringendolo molto si ovvia abbastanza (poi ogni tanto basta controllare) al problema della mancanza di tenuta, dovuta alla scivolosità, e si perde la sua caratteristica simmetrica perfezione, che io non amo molto.

Nodo mezzo Windsor

Il nodo mezzo Windsor

È come il nodo Windsor ma con un passaggio in meno ed è quello che io utilizzo più frequentemente.

Perché?

Perché il passaggio in meno gli dona una gradevole asimmetria e un volume più contenuto. Lo si può usare praticamente con tutti i colli e con tutte le cravatte ad eccezione di quelle molto spesse. Se molto stretto non scivola e come aspetto si avvicina molto al nodo semplice doppio ma è più solido.

Il fazzoletto da taschino

È un argomento su cui torneremo dettagliatamente.

Ma

Vi siete mai chiesti a cosa serve il taschino della giacca?

No! Non a metterci le penne o peggio ancora le biro!

Ha origini francesi settecentesche e serviva allora come oggi per contenere un fazzoletto o pochette o pocket square di seta, lana leggera, o cotone con pura funzione decorativa.

È inutile ed essenziale come la cravatta!

Ma…mentre potete non indossare la cravatta, non potete mai dimenticare la vostra pochette!

La giacca ne risulta valorizzata ed è quel tocco in più che vi può far distinguere al primo sguardo.

Come ho appena scritto dedicherò un articolo all’argomento, per ora vi lascio con questo consiglio che è quasi un ordine: cravatta e fazzoletto da taschino dello stesso tessuto mai!

And the tie?



For years now, designers have been trying to convince us that they can do without it, but apart from the fact that with little consistency they continue to design and produce them, none of us intends to give up completely to this piece of cloth that, by itself, succeeds exalt a suit or completely ruin its effect.

Indeed today it is easier to go out without a tie because no one is more scandalized than the traditionalists to the bitter end.

But let’s fix some basic rules because the presence or absence of a tie can be disastrous in both cases.

And, if you are not more than sure of yourself, avoid doing your own thing looking for an originality that can betray you.

Remember that before subverting rules or ignoring them, it is essential to know them well.

No tie

Let’s say immediately that the season can help us in the decision: late spring and summer allow much more freedom and therefore, apart from the formal occasions, we can forget the tie with a serene soul.

But

This does not mean that everything is allowed

Tee shirt

If you have exceeded forty forget it! A crew-neck sweater under a jacket does not give you and does not help you, especially if you have a thin neck and pectorals not worthy of this name, not to mention a possible belly. Leave these liberties to the boys. Remember that our purpose is not to cover ourselves but to enhance our appearance to the full. Not everyone is David Gandy but, as I wrote in a previous article, we can avoid certain mistakes and learn some “style”.

The shirt

Nothing gives more to your face than a beautiful shirt and a beautiful collar. Tom Ford is a perfect example.

But … there is always a but, unfortunately.

In this case too, attention is everything. Do not hope to get away with unleashing one collar button!

Have you chosen a shirt, which suits your outfit and the effect you hope to achieve?

But … have you tried wearing it with a jacket? The collar is right?

You do not understand what I mean eh?

I’ll explain.

The collar should not be crushed under the jacket but must come out harmoniously.

Button down

The button down is perfect for these situations because it “stands up” and dresses your neck.

French collar

Collars with broad tips, so-called French, floppy or stiff they are, tend to widen and disappear under the lapels of the jacket, so avoid them in these situations.

If you do not like the button down, the long-necked collars, called Italian, can help you to resolve the situation.

Italian collar


A little trick: to keep them open and raised, fold them with your hands slightly outwards

How many buttons do I unbotton?

Correct

Unbotton the collar button and the button below and stop. It is not a show of pectorals!

Seminarist effect

However, please, unbotton them both. With a single button loose the seminarist effect is assured. The tie is definitely better.

The hairy chest

At this point an endless diatribe opens up on the opportunity of depilation. Diatribe that I would not face.

But … if opening your shirt a forest comes out, please, run for cover! Especially at a certain age when hypertrichosis arrives and the forest is covered with snow.

In my opinion, if hair removal is not part of your belief, you have two possibilities.

The first is to take a nice trimmer and shorten excess hair. Fast, painless and practically invisible.

The second, which I frankly prefer and have adopted for years before deciding to shave chest hair, provides a nice razor cut in the visible part through the opening of the shirt. Of course this solution works only if you are not King Kong and therefore this bare-chested thinning does not turn into a beautiful ski slope through the forest.

Tie yes

And we are faced with an infinite number of possible worlds. Which tie? What material? Plain color or drawings? What knot do I choose?

Let’s face one problem at a time.

Just to start off, remember that the tie is perhaps the first thing you notice in a man and allows you to stand out and demonstrate your style with just one move.

A general rule that can guide you if you are a beginner in building and especially wearing your wardrobe is to escape from eccentricities. A classic choice, which may seem trivial and obvious, can only be right. A blue jacket with grey trousers, for example, is always perfect and especially timeless.

But … you can ruin everything with the details.

If you are not more than sure of yourself, avoid doing your own thing looking for an originality that can betray you.

Remember that, as I wrote above, before subverting the rules or ignoring them, it is essential to know them well.

The shirt

The collar is fundamental. Determine the tone of the shirt more than the chosen color or fantasy.

The button down, for which Brooks Brothers is famous, is an exclusively sporty collar. Do not forget it.

Button down collar

The Italian or French collar is more versatile and lends itself to different occasions.

French collar

There is also a version of the Italian collar with the tips a bit more elongated, which I love a lot and that I usually use with a collar pin or that I request with a list that brings the tips. It is a model that Giorgio Armani has used a lot and that brings us back to atmospheres linked to the ’30s,’ 40s.

Italian collar

The collar can be made with the seam evident or with the invisible seam, which I prefer in absolute because I consider it much more elegant.

You decide what you like best.

Solid color or pattern?

The solid color creates less problems and offers a greater choice of fabrics: poplin, oxford, twill, fil a fil, denim, linen … Remember to use the latter exclusively in the summer.

Since we are learning, blue is a winning horse and will never cause you problems.

Of course white is a must but, incredibly, it is much more difficult than blue. If you are not tanned it will not help you and the wedding effect is always around the corner.

The lines, which I love very much, are very elegant. Decline them in light blue, blue, gray, pink and red, always alternating with white. Beware of the lines of different sizes. A pari pari is better (the rows are of equal width).

Leave the game of colors and sizes to the dandies.

Do not get into trouble alone.

The squares are more and more up-to-date and can allow you to revive with style a garment that you consider boring or to demystify a blue jacket or a gray suit.

Avoid the small squares: they are trivial and boring.

If it must be a picture, squares be!

A good measure goes from 3 to 5 mm. from the side.

Also in this case for the colors used those of the lines and for now always alternated with white.

For all the other patterns, you have to grow and a lot!

The tie

It can be a standing ovation or a colossal fiasco!

Where do we start from?

Try to follow me and the choice will be easier.

In general, the ties are made of silk, wool, silk organza, linen or cotton.

The wool is used from October to March / April and is accompanied by sportswear.

Cotton and linen from May / June to the end of September and can be elegant or sporty depending on.

Silk has no seasons.

It seems logical that the tie should harmonize with the colors of the jacket and shirt.

But … the game is not so simple.

As for the shirt, if you are not yet an expert, think “classic” and you will not go wrong.

Do not worry, thinking classic does not mean falling into boredom, far from it!

Solid color ties

There are colors to be treated with caution. Red is always to be avoided. Followed by lilac and orange which are very difficult colors to handle but not impossible. A separate speech should be made for black, which is almost always to be avoided for not falling into the funeral or mafia effect. However, I remind you that Fleming had James Bond wearing black ties.

The material has a decisive influence.

I’ll give you an example: a gray wool tie is very elegant when worn with a tweed, a Prince of Wales or a flannel. A gray silk tie is terrible, especially if it is shiny. The gray ceremonial tie speech is different but it is not what we are facing.

A blue or light blue tie, worn with a classic blue blazer (which is a garment that an elegant man can not do without), is always perfect, whatever material is made.

Striped ties

If you think lines, think, please Regimental!

There are hardly any others in the wardrobe of an elegant man.

If they ever went out of fashion, now there is a strong return of these extraordinary ties that can solve almost any situation.

It is known that the name derives from the fact that, in the United Kingdom, for color or design they identify a regiment, a college or a sports club.

The types are:

Titan: a single line placed under the node

Amber: the colors of the lines have different shades of the same color

Heraldry: the lines have a horizontal or vertical trend

Ribbon: the lines are on the whole tie at a regular distance

Mogador: a wide line interspersed with two more narrow ones

Bengal: the lines are of equal size, have contrasting colors

A curiosity: the trend of the lines determines the origin of the tie itself.

I’ll explain.

If the line starts from the left shoulder and goes to the right side, that is from the heart to the sword or remembers the position of the right arm resting on the heart during an oath, the tie is English. Go and look at the photos of Prince Charles or his son William.

If the line starts from the right shoulder and goes towards the left side the tie is American. A typical example is the Brooks Brothers regimental.

The Regimental ties became fashionable after the trip the Duke of Windsor made in the United States in 1919. He later wrote in his book: “As a senior official of the Great Guards, where I had served during the war, I was right to bring their tie and I did it often. The fashion reporters were quick to notice, and they were all the rage in America. ”

It is a good idea for the Regimental tie to resume the color of the dress, jacket or shirt in some of its lines.

You can also wear them with striped or checked shirts but very carefully.

If you have doubts about choose the solid color or the patterns.

Fantasy ties

And here it opens another complex and insidious world.

But … I will guide you.

Polka dots

A great classic. Elegant and versatile. You can find them declined in wool, in the organzino and, naturally, in the silk.

Basically I prefer them combined with elegant or semi-sporty clothes.

The polka dot tie in wool or organzino can also be matched to a sporty fabric but a steady hand is required as for a surgical operation. Until we have achieved our well-defined and recognized style, let’s avoid the dangers.

Do not listen to the boring words that tell you never to mix lines and polka dots!

A blue and white pinstripe suit is perfect with a white shirt and a blue tie with white polka dots (maybe not too big).

The same can be said, for example, for a white and blue striped shirt with a white tie with blue polka dots.

I love wearing a gray flannel with a white and burgundy striped shirt, complemented by a burgundy gray silk tie.

Paisley patterns

They are also called more commonly cashmere patterns and are characterized by a more or less complex repetition of a pattern that can be interpreted as a drop, a leaf or a feather …

You can find them printed on wool or much more often on silk.

Paisley

You can use them with practically all fabrics, never forgetting the rule of reference or color matching.

The so-called tie designs

The so-called tie designs

You can find plenty of them, but before playing in one fell swoop the consideration of elegant man that you are painstakingly conquering, limited your choices for now.

Madder silk

Madder silk from England that has a particular hand and an unsurpassed depth of color. The drawings are small, geometric and repetitive. Perfect also and above all with tweed and rustic fabrics. An extraordinary interpreter of this fabric is my friend of Instagram, @amidestevens with the products of his brand Amidèhadelin.

Marinella

Marinella‘s ties the Neapolitan genius of ties. The drawings often take up the motifs of silk madder but with a personal touch. Remember that an elegant man recognizes a tie by Marinella at first glance! With one of his tie you’ll never be wrong!

Hermès

The Hermès ties. The triumph of endlessly repeated design: stirrups, bites, H, animals, geometries … everything you could wish for or imagine. Personally, I think that if you find a tie from Hermès in your father’s wardrobe or your grandfather’s, you must guard it jealously. I own a certain vintage number, almost all of my father-in-law, and I prefer them to my more recent ones.

The knot of the tie

The tie knot

Arrived at this point of our journey you should succeed in a few steps to match suit, shirt, tie with quite satisfactory results.

But … if you miss the knot of the tie you can frustrate all your efforts.

Which knot?

There are many. According to recent research it seems that there are even 85 different nodes but I will show you only the characteristics of the most used (which are also the ones I prefer) and why choose one instead of another. I will not explain then how they do it because on the internet you can even find tutorials on the subject and this does not seem to me the right place.

But … do not get too attached to the knot you have chosen and that you think represents you. Yes, because the node also speaks of you and distinguishes you.

Why? You will ask me.

Because the knot should also be chosen according to the fabric of the tie, its thickness, the slipperiness of the silk, if it is silk, and the collar of the shirt.

Before making the knot, close the collar button and turn the tips upwards. Knot the tie in the chosen way and pull it well so that the knot is firm and cover the collar button.

Why, I beg you, the loose knot (soft) no! The loose knot does not exist in nature.

The collar button must never be seen. It is an unwatchable thing. Do not tell me that the tie strangles you. Rather than put it on.

Another rule: the front part of the tie and the back should be the same length so that the tips touch each other.

But … in the real world it’s very difficult, unless you’re an expert. If you can not, patience.

But … there should not be too much difference and above all the back part should never be longer than the front!

In time you will understand that the real elegant man is never perfect.

Perfection can be boring. The so-called sprezzatura harmonizes apparently contrasting pieces but that a man sure of his style knows how to mix in perfect harmony.

Even the knot of the tie must give the impression that you have done it without thinking too much about it and not “using every morning of time to tie the tie in perfect imperfection” (Giorgio Giangiulio @giorgiogiangiulio).

Have you ever noticed that very often the ties of the refined style icons that you admire immediately present under the knot a small hollow, called drop or dimple?  

Drop or dimple

It is an apparent, very elegant, imperfect or creasing that enlivens the trend of the tie and increases its chiaroscuro giving it volume.

How do you get it? Place a finger under the knot before finally pulling the tie. Or take the two side parts of the tie just below the completed knot and fold one to the other. It is not difficult but requires some effort if you are a beginner.

The small part of the tie, the back side to be clear, can be inserted or not in the label or in the special tab behind the front edge. Today the tendency is to leave the two flaps free in an apparent disorder, but you can choose at your leisure. I personally prefer the free flaps only on less formal occasions.

One more thing: avoid the tie-pins like the plague. So to speak, those pins or clothespins that were frequently seen in American films of the ’40s or’ 50s.

Simple knot or four in hand

It is a knot quite small and very easy that you will choose if the tie has a bit of consistency and avoid a knot too small or if the fabric is very thick like wool or if you have a “seven folds”.

Simple knot

It is conical and elongated, vaguely asymmetrical. It adapts to almost all packages except French ones, very open, because it is often too small.

Albert knot
Simple double knot or Albert knot

It is practically the same as the simple knot but with an extra twist, so it is suitable for ties made with very light fabrics such as silk or cotton or the organzino. Perfect if you want to get a more full-bodied effect and under pointed necks approached by strips or brooches as in the ’30s, which I personally love a lot.

Windsor

Windsor or Scappino knot

It is attributed to the Duke of Windsor but much more probably was invented by Domenico Scappino, Savoy tailor, around the ’30s.

It is a complex, rather important and perfectly triangular knot. It requires necks with rather broad spikes and ties with not too thick fabrics to avoid a coarse and intrusive effect.

I use it when the ties are too light or slippery like the Hermès ones. Tightening it a lot it is possible to solve (occasionally it is necessary to check) the problem of the loose knot, due to the slipperiness, and you lose its characteristic symmetrical perfection, which I do not love very much.

Half Windsor

Half Windsor knot

It’s like the Windsor knot but with one passage less and it’s the one I use most frequently.

Why?

Because missing a passage gives it a pleasant asymmetry and a smaller volume. It can be used practically with all the necks and with all the ties except for the very thick ones. If very tighten, it does not slip and it looks very close to the double simple knot but it is more solid.

The pocket square

It is a subject on which we will return in detail.

But

Have you ever wondered what the jacket pocket is for?

No! Not to put the pens or worse the ballpoint pens!

It has seventeenth-century French origins and was then used today to contain a pochette or pocket square of silk, light wool, or cotton with pure decorative function.

It’s useless and essential like the tie!

But … while you can not wear a tie, you can never forget your pocket square!

The jacket is enhanced andit is that extra touch that can make you stand out at first glance.

As I just wrote, I will dedicate an article to the subject, for now I leave you with this advice that is almost an order: never tie and pocket square of the same fabric !

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